Back Fixing the Hall Effect Sensor Back
The following is an alternative approach to fitting the Hall Effect Sensor In the BMW Bean Can that has the type of Timing Plate assembly where the two plates aren't fixed together with screws.My thanks to Bill Emery (airhead) from Australia for providing the write up and photo's. - Rob F 8/9/07
From the centres of the two indicated countersunk holes
already in the plate, I set up a pair of dividers to 16 mm and scribe a small
arc from the first hole, then set it to 21 mm and from the second hole, describe
an arc to intersect the first arc right above the shrouded rivet. I have a small
blind rivet head that sits in the counter sunk holes to allow the dividers to
find the holes centre accurately.

I then centre punch this mark and use a 2mm pilot drill, then an 8 mm drill to
make the hole larger. I reground this drill to a shallower angle so it will open
up the hole but not drill too far into the rivet, though if you are careful it
can be done with the standard angle.
I then pop the centre of the rivets and drill off the peened part of it before
it cuts into the base plate too far, though a Dremel would still work fine. I
have an anvil made up that fits the fixed side of the rivet on the Siemens/Hwell
sensors, and a flat shape anvil for the others with a hollow rivet. Either peens
over fine with a nail punch or centre punch depending on type.
Drilling the hole only takes a few minutes and no further mods are needed to the
plate.
BTW, careful drilling the 8 mm hole as it will go right to the edge of the
plate, but should behave itself as it only just barely does so.
I mentioned an anvil in my previous post for the Siemens/Hwell type solid rivet. I made it from 1/4" SS rod, I turned it down to 5 mm and drilled a 3.5 mm hole in the centre. I place this in a vice so the plate/sensor is supported and peen the other side. Isn't totally necessary, but keeps everything nice and square.


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Posted 8/9/07
With Thanks to
Bill Emery who supplied the write up and pictures.